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We are really lucky in London to have chefs like Merlin Labron-Johnson cooking for us: his dishes are beautiful! And I am not talking only about their visual impact – the presentation is in a complete harmony with the flavours and textures pampering our palate.

The cauliflower panna cotta was beautifully paired with the raw sea bass and accented with a succulent pear and the salty grains of caviar. The beautiful umami of mushrooms in the next dish, topped with a delicious beer sabayon and sprinkled with buckwheat granola, could easily be served as a dessert. Such a lovely creaminess and explosion of flavours! The meat and fish in the main dishes were cooked to perfection, the dishes themselves being set up with the right measure of creativity and with a great sensibility for a harmony of contrasts. The desserts are a chapter on it’s own. I really enjoyed all of them, but the chocolate and caramel cremeux, with the Jerusalem artichoke ice cream and frozen sable biscuit was one of the most intense chocolatey indulgences I had lately. I am very much looking forward to returning to Portland to discover Merlin’s flavours of spring or summer.

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