Portland. London. 25th January 2017

Warm gougeres with Mimolette cheese
Chicken skins with chicken liver parfait, walnuts and grapes
Smoked eel with pear and kohlrabi
Cauliflower panna cotta with raw sea bass, pear and caviar
Mushrooms with beer sabayon and buckwheat granola
Cornish monkfish with oca de Peru, nasturtium roots and brown butter sauce
Guinea fowl with crosnes, chestnut and Jerusalem artichokes
Denham estate deer with alliums and mustard seeds
Game taco with cep ketchup and horseradish
Pumpkin, citrus and nitro cheesecake
Rhubarb, white chocolate and poppy seed
Chocolate and caramel cremeux, Jerusalem artichoke ice cream and frozen sable biscuit
Seville orange pate de fruit and pistachio financiers


113 Great Portland St, London W1W 6QQ
We are really lucky in London to have chefs like Merlin Labron-Johnson cooking for us: his dishes are beautiful! And I am not talking only about their visual impact – the presentation is in a complete harmony with the flavours and textures pampering our palate.
The cauliflower panna cotta was beautifully paired with the raw sea bass and accented with a succulent pear and the salty grains of caviar. The beautiful umami of mushrooms in the next dish, topped with a delicious beer sabayon and sprinkled with buckwheat granola, could easily be served as a dessert. Such a lovely creaminess and explosion of flavours! The meat and fish in the main dishes were cooked to perfection, the dishes themselves being set up with the right measure of creativity and with a great sensibility for a harmony of contrasts. The desserts are a chapter on it’s own. I really enjoyed all of them, but the chocolate and caramel cremeux, with the Jerusalem artichoke ice cream and frozen sable biscuit was one of the most intense chocolatey indulgences I had lately. I am very much looking forward to returning to Portland to discover Merlin’s flavours of spring or summer.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s