Davies & Brook. London. 12th of October 2021

This was my first visit to Davies & Brook, the restaurant created by Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NY) and his team with the head chef Dmitri Magi at the Claridges hotel in Mayfair in London.

While Eleven Madison Park became a vegetarian restaurant, is Davies & Brook still serving fish and meat as well. We went for their tasting menu, but took the chicken instead of the duck. Here is what was served:

Confit Golden enoki mushrooms with lemongrass and coriander tea
Caviar. Imperial Osietra Caviar with Squash, Bonito and English Muffin
Turnip. Variations with Black Radish and Apple
Celeriac. With Broken Rice Porridge and Black Truffle
Black cod. Roasted with Turnip, Savoy Cabbage and Miso
Roasted chicken. Stuffed with Black Truffle, Foie Gras and Brioche, Braised Leg Meat with Potato Purée and Summer Beans
Chocolate and hazelnuts

All the dishes were delicious and perfectly executed, the comments that follow are just a question of my personal taste. I wish the tea with the enoki mushrooms was not ice cold, but that was chef’s choice – it is meant as an ice-tea while I believe slightly warmer would be more pleasant and would enhance the umami even more. (I hear they are now working on a pumpkin dish for the start, which will be served with a warm tea. I bet it will be delicious!) Turnip and celeriac dishes were pushing acidity a bit too much for my taste and were slightly out of balance. It was not an accent but the main flavour of the two dishes which followed one after another. But this is merely my subjective view, I am sure many of you would enjoy the dishes the way they are. My favourite dish of the meal was the caviar. It is not only stunningly beautiful but also a super delicious and perfectly balanced dish with beautiful textures. I think I need to return at a later point and see how Davis & Brook evolves. The team in the kitchen as well as the front of the house is super lovely, highly motivated and extremely welcoming so I can assure you, you will enjoy your experience.

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