The Clove Club. London. 20th July 2021

Not sure how many times have I been at The Clove Club (quite some times) but I can definitely repeat what Filippo, my dining companion from Upcoming (check it out if you like food, film and/or arts!) said: none of us has ever had so many courses at the Clove Club before (and we both have eaten there at many occassions) and to be honest, each of them was super satisfying super delicious more than solid cooking.

Now, what did we have?

Let’s have a glass of Champagne first?

No amuse bouches, no tasting menu! These were delicious, especially the broth!

Now let’s get serious (whatever this means for you).

Anchovy. The pure flavour of the sea. Here in a very sophisticated way.

Smoked anchovy jelly, almond granita & datterini tomatoes.

It takes me to the South of Italy between the almond trees and oranges, where best tomatoes grow on vulcanic soil of Etna and Vesuvio. It is an intense but extremely sophisticated dish. The sweetness, the freshness, the super light fatiness of the anchovy jelly which beautifully captures the flavours of the sea. An emotion captured in flavours. A sign we were up for an amazing meal.

 

We needed some good wine to go with all the dishes. Wine pairing at lunchtime might have been too much. I am originally from Slovenia and know Marko Fon wines very well. He is a very passionate winemaker creating amazing low intervention wines with lots of minerality. He is also very selective about who he sells his wines to, so it’s pretty hard to get his wines even in Slovenia. Wherever you are, if you have a chance to try his wine, do it! It’s really worth trying!

Let’s go back to food and another great dish!

Raw orkney scallop with hazelnut and clementine (and not only).

A bomb of umami balanced with freshness. A very bold, super delicious dish.

And who would’t appreciate this wine pairing?

Isaac McHale was there too. So thankful!

This one? They cal it superior custard. Peas, ham & dried seafood. Can you smell it even without tasting it like I do? It’s a while since that meal and yet, I can remember this flavour like if it was yesterday.

This dish! It has it all: brain, looks and spirit! 😉 This super delicious sardine sashimi, ginger and chrysanthemum glaze deliciousness could be reason strong enough to go back to The Clove Club already the next day. Super complex and simple at the same time, for me it was one of the stars of the meal. Maybe my favourite? I love it from head to toes!

 

I skipped the bread and butter, sorry, but Filippo said they were magnificent.

Another beautiful dish by the Clove Club team.  Native Cornish Lobster with Corsican Pomelo and sage. So delicious!

 

Next one in line was the perfectly grilled trout with pine emmulsion.

Well, you missed some meat?

 

The one which followed was suckling pig with pancake and black pudding. It was melting in the mouth!

And then the delicious slow roast Linconshire chicken with celeriac & trompette.

We also had a wine surprise, a special treat (look at the vintage as well)

 

And then….

Darmoor lamb with gherkin kimchi which was followed by grilled habanero granita with red goosberry:

 

Did you ever have a better palate cleanser at the Clove Club than this one?

It was followed by the delicious apricot sorbet with loquat kernel mousse, popcorn, amaranth.

 

And then the best ever strawberries with cream, sake lees, blackcurrant wine & antica formula – all together prepared in front of us. They were amazing!

 

All deserts were refreshing and light. Nothing heavy or to sweet. A beautiful end of the meal.

 

Isaac Mc Hale and his team have topped up their game. Not only with the dishes which are full of delicious elegance and full of flavour, but also with new dinnerware and tablecloths. Once “Shoreditch cool” restaurant with hipster vibe has matured with class, maintaining its youthful spirit with a warm welcoming service and playful creativity in the kitchen. They should have got the second Michelin star long ago but now they deserve it more than ever.

 

Andreja Lajh

 

 

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