Kadeau Bornholm. London. 21st April. OAD week

Green asparagus marinated with spinach and woodruff oil. Sauce from fermented green peas, mussels, gooseberry juice. Cockle emulsion, chopped pine
Oysters with oyster emulsion, sauerkraut, black currant leaf oil, potato crumble
Scallop with horseradish cream, mussels licorice, dried carrot, scallop roe, hemp oil
Mussel cracker, fried mussel salad, fried mussel emulsion, fried cabbages and kale, fried cabbage on top
Mackerel grilled with hey, grilled and fried ramson, fermented mushroom, brown butter, cep oil, pickled onions
Tomato tart, semi-dried with seaweed oil, roasted king crab, caramelised cream
Grilled preserved pumpkin, wood ants, fermented white asparagus, woodruff oil, grilled rose petals, caviar
Meat and shellfish broth
Pork with BBQ style sauce
Buttermilk cream with pine gel and hay ash, sitting on a thin disc of pastry, pickled pines
Rhubarb and white asparagus with creme fraiche, rhubarb root oil, white currant juice

The chefs from Kadeau Bornholm cooked in London during the OAD week. Cooking outside of their “home” kitchen, without a complete team, is quite challenging for chefs, yet these young guys have cooked up a really mind blowing dinner also in this location and demonstrated how well deserved is their second Michelin star which they got in their outpost in Copenhagen.

Kadeau, the restaurant owned by Magnus Kofoed, Nicolai Nørregaard and Rasmus Kofoed, located in the very periphery of Denmark, at the South coast of the island of Bornholm in an updated beach pavilion surrounded by the forest, the sand and the sea, was opened in 2010. You can taste the nature that surrounds them in every single bite they create – their dishes are multilayered, complex, full of freshness and utterly delicious. This dinner during the OAD was one of the best meals I had – not only this year, but in general.

The spectrum of flavours is wide and deep as the nature around Bornholm and  makes dishes explode with the energy of spring. We started with the chlorophyll loaded starter – Green asparagus marinated with spinach and woodruff oil served with sauce from fermented green peas, mussels, gooseberry juice with cockle emulsion and chopped pine and continued with oysters which were beautifully paired with the acidity of sauerkraut and subtle flavours of black currant leaf oil while the texture got a kick with the potato crumble. The fantastic scallop got a perfect pairing with the sweetness and spiciness of horseradish cream and was beautifully enriched with the mussels licorice, dried carrot, scallop roe and hemp oil. After such an intense start – how can the guys top it up with the next dishes? Well, they did. Every dish that followed was a beautiful surprise – a perfectly balanced explosion of flavours taking us to the untouched wild nature of their home island. The dinner left me with one wish only: to fly to Bornholm and have more of it.

Andreja Lajh

 

The Kadeau team after the fabulous dinner

 

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