Beck at Brown’s. London. 13th April 2018

Fried Artichoke, Crostini with butter and anchovies
Bluefin tuna, peppercorns, Tokyo turnips
Grilled Scottish scallops with green and white asparagus
Dressed crab with grilled Romain lettuce and wild herbs
Risotto with aged parmesan, olive oil and artichokes
Grilled black code with ‘nduja crust, red peppers and cucumber
Soy-marinated beef fillet, chicory and horseradish mayonnaise
Cheese pie

Beck at Brown’s

Rocco Forte Brown’s Hotel

33 Albemarle St, Mayfair, London W1S 4BP

Phone: 020 7518 4004

Heinz Beck, German by birth, Roman by heart, uniting so well the best of the both cultures – the German perfectionism and the wealth of Italian traditions in the food, is tomorrow, 16th of April, opening his new steady outpost in London at the Brown’s hotel. His 3-Michelin starred La Pergola in Rome is one of the great altars of the haute cuisine.

The chef with a great passion for healthy nutrition, has for his London kitchen, appointed Heros de Agostinis, his right hand since many years. A safe hand opening all the new outposts of the famous chef.

What to expect? More casual dishes than those at La Pergola as well as those you were able to taste at the pop-up Ora (one of my best dining experiences last year – and I was travelling quite a lot!) – simpler but still perfectly composed and executed – a decision taken to satisfy a bit more conservative guests of that part of Mayfair (or better – to keep the guests of the previous Hix’ restaurant happy). I didn’t have a chance to try all the dishes of the new menu (a good excuse to return) but between those that I tried I specially enjoyed the  Bluefin tuna with peppercorns and Tokyo turnips. If you haven’t tried them yet (I had them at La Pergola a few years ago) you shouldn’t miss also the fagotelli carbonara – one of the best ever versions of the classical carbonara dish worldwide.

I am looking forward to returning, even if I have to say I miss a bit the complexity and lightness/freshness of the dishes they were offering at Ora. But I am sure most of the clients in Mayfair will prefer this Beck’s version. And a restaurant is there to satisfy the clients, they say. True?

Andreja Lajh

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