Das Bootshaus. Traunkirchen. 12th April 2019

Sashimi of wild caught carp | pickled rhubarb – sorrel and apple cream – homemade white Sohyu
Ceviche of wild caught char | Radishes – carrots – dill
Burbot fillet | Freshwater Bouillabaisse – ramson – Pannonian Saffron
Wild caught crayfish | portulaca – sour soup – lovage
Arrival to the table: Steamed perch | green Asparagus – pickled pear – Spruce hollandaise
Serving: Steamed perch | green Asparagus – pickled pear – Spruce hollandaise
20 years old Eel | cornus – 7 herbs “spinach” – buckwheat
Organic Lamb | Barbecued cabbage – Douglas pine – pickled shallots
Violets | Pinova apple – pistachios – raw milk
Cheese trolley
Petit four trolley

Restaurant Bootshaus

Klosterpl. 4, 4801 Traunkirchen, Austria
This was my third time at Bootshaus within 3 years, the restaurant located in the Seehotel Das Traunsee, owned by the Groeller family. Behind the stoves is already seven years Lukas Nagl. Before taking over the kitchen of the lovely hotel, has Lukas, after graduating at the tourism college at Bad Ischl, gained experiences at some of the best restaurants in Austria, Germany, Switzerland and New York (including Per Se in New York and Steiereck in Vienna).

Lukas is inspired by the local ingredients but isn’t shy to use techniques from all over the world. His cuisine is a cuisine of a vivid traveller with deep roots in his local terroir. He is playful on one side but technically very serious on another. Instead of olives, he serves a special variety of local cherries that taste like olives. He serves sashimi, but his sashimi is of raw carp belly (minimum 10 years of age) served with (again very local!) pickled rhubarb with home made koji vinegar, sorrel and apple puree with horseradish. Sashimi becomes with this very much Austrian. Also his wild caught char ceviche (as you may now be aware, he uses only the local fish) is served with tiger milk made local with green rhubarb, spring onions, horseradish leaves and radish juice. His technique is polished, which results in perfectly cooked produce (have a look at the beautiful crispy skin of lamb and the juicy meat), but always paired with his creative approaches. Oh and the dessert made of poached pinova apple with chamomile and apple juice, caramelised fennel seeds, the amazing raw butter puff pastry, crème of pistachios, raw milk ice crème, icing sugar and syrup of violets, crispy dried slices of pinova apple and chamomile flowers and fresh violets, sounds very complex, but it’s a complexity where every element stands where it should be, in a perfect harmony of intense flavours and beautiful crunchiness and just the right amount of creaminess to glue it all together and to make it one of the most delicious desserts I ever had. Bravo Lukas!


Andreja Lajh

Here are also photos from the lunch the day after (also at Bootshaus) and the view from the restaurant:
Amuse bouche
Farm Salad | Cherry blossoms – Hazelnuts – foam of agria potatoes
Smoked Traunsee Trout | pickled rhubarb – Sorrel – fermented white radish
Whey meringue | Sheep’s yoghurt – stone pine – pickled raspberry – wood sorrel sorbet and leaves and flowers
The view from the restaurant

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