If you have ever been in Rio at Oteque, you need to read the article by Kaja Sajovic. If you have never been there, you not only need to read the article, you need visit Oteque as well. But for the start, do read this:
“Against the storytelling. At the time every fine dining meal almost has to come with a story to “sell”, it requires balls to take the approach Alberto Landgraf is taking.
Forget nose to tail, forget whole duck carcasses on the table, forget edible air and moldy apples, right now there’s probably nothing more radical than to dive into the competitive world of haute cuisine with no pre-prepared romantic narrative.
Which doesn’t mean Landgraf doesn’t have anything to say – he’s actually an incredibly interesting conversationalist, one that can debate with you on any topic ranging from Einstein to politics, from physics to art world. But he also thinks silence is underrated. It would be cliché to say he lets his food do the talking. But it would also be the truth.
The show he puts on at Oteque, his sleek, modern, sexy Rio de Janeiro restaurant is an understated one, but extremely convincing and pleasing. Starting with the soundtrack ranging from Morrissey to David Bowie, from Cool Britannia to the latest indie stuff.
Landgraf is like the conductor of a small orchestra of chefs under him, all moving in synch in almost zen-like focus in the open kitchen, in front of the first row of guests. Everything is controlled, impeccable, from perfect, luxurious flavour combinations coming out of the kitchen to discreet service and hypnotic ambience…. ” continue reading.